"So you have got yourself a sharp knife and have decided what you want to carve." This is a good starting point for many carvers whether they have been to a carving class already where they made a specific item or they wanted to go at it alone. However at this point there is one important question to ask
"What type of timber should I use?"
There is no simple answer to this, but a couple of things to consider are,
What timbers are available locally?
Depending on where you live there may be a variety of local and imported timbers available that are well suited for both learning to carve or practicing carving techniques.
That being said there is another very important thing to ask.
What is the workability of this timber?
This can be learned a couple of ways. Firstly if you have either purchased some timber or found some on the side of the road and you can try it out. This is a direct way of getting feedback by feeling how much effort it takes for a knife to pass through the timber and whether it chips out or catches on the grain fibres. This can be a good place to start but depending on your location there can be many different species of timber available, both soft and hard, which could take a very long time to work out which are best.
For a long time I have found it useful to ask other carvers and timber workers what a timber is like to work with and use that as a starting point. Here in Australia we are blessed with an abundance of fine native timbers as well as many introduced species that are well suited for carving.
This is a lot to consider but if you start slowly and try a few different timbers you can get first hand feedback and find out which timbers you enjoy working. What will quickly become apparent is that there are many different characteristics of timber and these will directly impact there workability.
Carving Timbers (This is by no means a definitive list but more an advisory starting point)Softer Timbers: King Billy Pine, Jelutong(Imported), Sugi(Japanese Red Cedar)
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Pros- Easy to carve, Easy on your hands |
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Cons- Can dent and bruise if worked too hard, Will not hold fine details |
Softer to Medium Timbers: Huon Pine, Australian White Beech, Linden(Imported), Qld Maple, Fijian Mahogany, Hoop Pine, Camphor Laurel, Silky Oak, Bunya Pine
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Pros- Moderately easy to carve, Will hold details better |
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Cons- Availability in useful dimensions |
Medium to Hard Timber: Sassafras, Celery Top Pine, Rose Mahogany, Myrtle Beech, Macadamia, Most Fruitwoods(Apple,Pear,Cherry etc), Sheoak, Candelnut, Plane Tree,
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Pros- Will hold fine details better |
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Cons-Stiffer to work by hand |
There are many places to find information about preferred carving tools and techniques which make a tremendous resource. Whether it be websites, books, magazines, guilds, clubs and classes to individual tool makers, there is an extensive amount of information out there to become acquainted with or to broaden your knowledge base.
One of the first things to consider is whether you want to try carving timber that has already been seasoned or "greenwood" which is unseasoned timber that has a higher moisture content. There are pros and cons with the use of each these materials which needs to be considered.
There is a distinct difference between these two as follows: Seasoned timber has been dried to, or close to, what is technically know as equilibrium moisture content(EMC). This is reached by 2 main processes, firstly the timber it cut down from logs, branches or larger stock, closer to its required dimensions and then it is "racked out" to air dry over time or placed in a kiln or drying room which will accelerate the drying process. Greenwood has been collected after a tree as been harvested or appropriately sized limbs have been pruned and contains timber fibres which are moisture saturated. The percentage of water present in greenwood differs from species to species depending on it's particular structures and characteristics.
Both of these present their own set of pros and cons, along with considerations for working and finishing the material:
Seasoned Timbers
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Pros |
Cons |
| Stability: Seasoned timbers are less likely to warp, shrink, or crack compared to green (freshly cut) wood, making them more predictable to work with. |
Hardness: The hardness of seasoned timbers can make them more difficult to carve, requiring sharp tools and more effort. |
| Density: Often, seasoned timbers are denser and harder than green wood, providing a more solid material for intricate carving details. |
Brittleness: Depending upon the specific type of wood and their age, some seasoned timbers can become brittle, making them prone to splintering or breaking during carving. |
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Appearance: The natural color and grain pattern of seasoned wood can be more pronounced and aesthetically pleasing once finished. |
Cost: Seasoned timbers are often more expensive than green wood due to the time and effort required for seasoning. |
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Easier Handling: Seasoned wood is generally lighter and easier to handle compared to green wood of the same size, reducing fatigue during carving. |
Limited Availability: Finding large, seasoned timbers suitable for carving can be challenging, as they are less common and might require sourcing from specialty suppliers. |
Considerations for Working and Finishing Seasoned Timbers:
1.Tool Sharpness: Sharp carving tools are essential due to the hardness of seasoned wood. Regular sharpening and honing is necessary to achieve the cleanest cuts.
2.Handling Brittle Wood: Careful handling and support of the wood during carving to prevent splintering or breakage.
3.Moisture Content: Even though seasoned, wood can still absorb or lose moisture depending on environmental conditions. Allow the wood to acclimate to your workshop environment before carving to minimize movement.
4.Finishing Techniques: Seasoned wood might require different finishing techniques than green wood. It may take finishes differently due to its density and may benefit from conditioning or pre-sealing treatments to achieve a smooth surface.
5.Safety: Dust and debris from carving seasoned timbers can be hazardous. Use appropriate respiratory protection and dust collection systems to maintain a safe working environment.In summary, while carving seasoned timbers offers advantages in stability and appearance, it also requires careful consideration of tool sharpness, handling techniques, and finishing methods due to its density and potential brittleness. Adjustments in approach and tools may be necessary compared to working with green wood.
Greenwood(Unseasoned Timber)
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Pros |
Cons |
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Ease of Carving: Greenwood is softer, easier to carve and often requires less effort to work. |
Shrinkage and Warping: After carving, greenwoods needs to dry and during this time can shrink and distort altering the original design. |
| Reduced Tool Wear: Being softer greenwood causes less wear on tools. |
Cracking and Splitting: During the drying process greenwood can be prone to crack and split which can ruin a piece. |
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Availability: Can be sourced from freshly cut trees in your neighbourhood |
Mold and Decay: Greenwood can be prone to mold and decay if not seasoned carefullyafter carving. |
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Smoother Cuts: With higher moisture content greenwood can produce cleaner slices when carved. |
Inconsistent Drying: Uneven drying can lead to inconsistencies in the timbers structure and texture |
Managing green wood for carving requires careful attention to its natural characteristics and behaviours as it dries. Here are some key points to consider:
1.Drying Process: Green wood contains a high moisture content, which will gradually evaporate as the wood dries. This evaporation can lead to shrinkage and changes in shape. It's important to allow the wood to dry slowly and evenly to minimise warping or cracking.
2.Proper Storage: Store greenwood in a cool, dry place with good air circulation. Stacking the wood properly and allowing space between pieces can aid in the drying process.
3.Sealing Ends: To slow down moisture loss and prevent splitting, seal the cut ends of the wood with wax or paint. This helps maintain an even drying rate throughout the piece.
4.Design Considerations: When designing your carving, consider the natural tendencies of wood to shrink and adjust your design accordingly. Leave extra material where possible to accommodate potential shrinkage.
5.Finishing and Stabilising: After carving, allow the piece to continue drying to equilibrium moisture content(EMC) before applying finishes. Finishing too early can trap moisture and lead to problems later on.
By understanding these considerations and implementing proper drying and curing techniques, you can effectively minimise the challenges associated with working with greenwood for carving. This approach ensures your carved pieces remain stable and retain their intended shape over time.